1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Premium Radio Choke Circuit
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Hello, did you check the fuse circuit for voltage, even if the fuse is good, if there is no feed it won't matter.Fuse 12, 10 amp for radio and dome lite, should be hot all the time.Did you check that the fuse circuit has voltage? Zackman posted a diagram, did you check that fuse box.
I think it could be the ignitions witch because I looked at the wiring diagram and if one leg of the switch is not working it will cause this problem.Here is a guide and the wiring so you can confirm the failure test the black and orange wire.Check out the diagrams (below). Please run this test and get back to us.Cheers.
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I have just tried replacing the stock radio with an aftermarket radio. I have done many of these in the past but have never came across one with an wire that had amp written on it connected to the stock radio. When I replaced it I wired the connectors up like I normally do and turned the car on and just left the amp wire alone. It seemed to have shorted some thing out and the after marked radio does not work, and when I hook up the stock radio it no longer works. Now when I try locking the doors the door locks go down and then go back up right away. Could there be an internal amp that I shorted out, which is why the radio wont work? The radio fuse has power on both sides of it.
But also, what would cause the doors to act like that? Are they some how linked to the radio or the internal amp if there is one? Cannot determine why my radio will not work. Fuse is good. Replaced Dodge Ram factory with CD player some three years ago.
As quality lessened (reception) decided to put original factory installed radio back in in its place. One day, quit working. Tried old CD player radio. Would not work either. Fuse is good. Cannot determine cause.As evidence of my unemployment, I feel I can only donate $10.00.
Further evidence of my unemployment and limited income is my 1998 Dodge Ram with 408,000 miles. I appreciate your help so much and will gladly donate more as income allows. I am, unfortunately, very green when it comes to electronics. I found a set of wires that plug into the radio. They are junctured together with a gray plug that plugs into the back of the radio. There is a pink wire and one that is red and white (both colors on the same wire).
There is not a separate white and separate red. Nor is there any of the three colors on the other wires that go into another plug (black in color ) that also plugs into the radio.I put a circuit tester on the pink and the white and red one, but did not get a light (with the accessory switch/ignition on). I am assuming that I am grounding the test light properly?
Grounded to door hinge on driver's side door. Thanks much for your help! I got the fuse out, the #12 fuse, as you instructed. The fuse was blown and I now have power/current to the pink wire as well as the red with the white tracer. Thank you so very much for your guidance, instruction and input. Just so you will know.
There are a total of three fuses in my fuse box that have some type of plastic cover or, kind of like a clip over them. Two of them, I cannot remember what they serve or what number.
They are are right next to each other and have identical yellow clips or covers over the fuses. The other one is fuse number 12. But it has a black clip/cover. I pulled hard with a pair of needle nose and it finally came off and brought the red, 10 amp fuse with it. The fuse was down inside of the clip and the clip had two long legs, about 3/4 of an inch that reach down into and seat into holes/slots in the wall of the fuse panel.

I have no idea why 12 has this cover. I am not sure if I was able to convey the description very well, but wanted to try. It was a bit confusing and baffling. But, again I replaced the fuse and now have power and once again thanks so much! I buy, sell, and repair a lot of radios at the nation's second largest old car show, and the Chrysler CD/cassette combo radio is by far my most popular model because of its very high quality. Sorry to say though, of the common problems, this is not one of them.
I would be happy to look at it for you, but I have a feeling the problem is not in the radio.There is an easy test to perform first. Pull the radio out and unplug it. Then use a voltmeter or test light to check for voltage in the gray plug.
There will be a pink wire on the end away from the keyway. It should have battery voltage all the time. The next wire is red, and it will likely have a stripe. That wire must not have battery voltage until the ignition switch is turned on. If it does, the cause must be found in the wiring harness.
If the voltage goes to 0 volts when the ignition switch is off, there indeed must be a problem in the radio.With all the circuits being complicated unnecessarily with unreliable computers, it is hard to tell what could work if the radio power circuit remains live. Overheated wires melted together at the ignition switch connector are a possibility but other systems should remain on too. That is unless they also need to have a computer turned on to operate.

That might apply to the wipers, but the cigarette lighter is on the same circuit. I do not think the silly engineers added a computer to he lighter, yet, so to be safe, try the lighter when the ignition switch is turned off.
If it works, check the ignition switch and wiring connector.Caradiodoc.